Buying organic wine: What I want to know

Are Organic wines healthier, taste better, cost more? What you need to know!

Are organic wines more expensive?

Surprisingly, unlike most organic products, there is currently no upcharge for organic wine, even though it can cost more to produce as yields are around 15% to 20% less than conventional wines. It also takes around 30% more man-hours to cultivate organically than conventionally, and then there are the costs of certification. However, until now, consumers of lower to mid-priced wines buy on price, grape variety, region, and scores. High-end, collectable wines sell on prestige and scores. To date, the fact that a wine is organic is an added benefit, not the key feature that will move a wine from shelf or list to the home or glass at a restaurant. However, with interest in organic wines growing, especially among sommeliers and people in the trade and a more educated public, that is likely to change.

Does organic wine taste better?

The jury is out. There is no conclusive evidence that organics and biodynamics result in better tasting wines, although it’s hard to argue against leaving behind a healthy environment or that a producer going through the work of certifying organic shows a care and concern likely means a better product. One study, entitled “Sustainable practices and product quality: Is there value in eco-label certification?, and conducted in 2020 by Magali Delmas of UCLA and Olivier Gergaud of Kedge Business in France, concluded organic and biodynamic wines garner better scores. Bottom line: Though some influential people in the wine business, such as importer Kermit Lynch and famed wine critics Robert Parker and Jancis Robinson, assert biodynamic wines taste better, most of us likely can’t taste the difference.

Taste aside, are organic wines different?

•Producers, however, probably wouldn’t go through the extra work and cost if the organic/biodynamic wines weren’t better. They argue that to make a wine that has a real personality and reflects the character of the local terroir, it must be grown on a healthy soil … and a healthy soil, teeming with millions of microorganisms, comes from organic and biodynamic farming. They also point to thicker grape skins resulting in more flavors and color. Some biodynamic producers also feel their wines are less prone to oxidation, meaning an opened bottle will stay fresh longer. Now that’s a winner!

Are organic wines more “fragile,” given the use of fewer preservatives?

Yes. Sulfites are the preservative used to make sure your wine doesn’t turn vinegary, cloudy or develop stinky flavors. Even some makers of “natural wines” (see “natural wines”) will add a tiny amount of SO2 (sulfur dioxide) to stabilize the wine just before bottling. Many natural wines do have beer-like or apple cider notes — a plus or a minus depending on your viewpoint.

At Domaine Bousquet, our “Virgen” line of wines have no sulfites added during winemaking. To keep the fresh fruit quality we want, extra precautions are taken: keep the winery squeaky-clean, store the wines at a cooler temperature post-fermentation, taste the wine weekly over a longer period to make sure nothing “bad” is happening. And finally, the wine is swaddled in thermal blankets to keep it cool during the journey to markets around the world.

Are organic wines preservative-free?

Virtually no wines are 100% “preservative-free.” Sulfites (see “Sulfites”) are used as a preservative. Buy from a reputable producer, whether organic or not. The goal is to use the least amount possible: Too little and the wine may taste funky; too much and the wine may be lifeless.

ARE ORGANIC WINES HEALTHIER?

AGRICHEMICALS:

Some organic producers argue that we ingest the synthetic sprays from the vine’s sap and the grape skins. Opponents point out that after you spray, there is a legally mandated waiting period before you can harvest to allow the chemical to degrade. And, if there is any residue, it will be eliminated during any of these winemaking steps: removal of skins after pressing, clarification, fermentation, filtration. Bottom line: definitely healthier for the workers in the field and winery, but not a big factor for consumers.

HANGOVERS:

Histamines may aggravate hangovers. Bottom line: Moderation in consumption is the best preventative!

SULFITES:

This is such a hot topic that we have a whole section to it. Sulfites may cause respiratory problems. So, for hangovers, redness, rashes, you need to look elsewhere for the culprit. The bottom line is: if you don’t have any respiratory problems from sulfite-rich foods such as processed meats and dried fruit, you are not very susceptible. Out of a million people, an estimated 5,000 to 10,000 are at risk and should avoid sulfites. From the production standpoint, quality producers believe wines taste more “alive” when sulfite use is minimized. Click here for more information on sulfites. Bottom line: If you are not in the high-risk category, buy from a quality, organic/biodynamic producer, with minimal use of sulfites.

HISTAMINES:

New research points to biogenic amines (BAs) as the possible culprit responsible for flushes, nausea and exacerbating hangovers. Histamine is a BA found in fermented products including alcoholic beverages, matured cheese and fermented vegetables. In winemaking malolactic fermentation increases histamines. Red wines have 20% to 200% more histamines than white wines. “Quality,” organic production does not impact histamine levels. To date, there is no agreement on how many people are allergic, nor what a reasonable histamine level might be. Bottom line: a topic that will move to front and center in the next few years