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Every week, Bill Zacharkiw identifies his top wine picks available at the SAQ and offers ideas for food pairings.

You may have noticed that the price of your favourite wines has risen over the past year. These increases vary between five per cent and — for some varieties, like Chablis and Sancerre — well over 10 per cent. As a result, we have changed some of the price ranges for Wines of the Week, particularly around the $20 level. Be assured that I will continue to scour the SAQ shelves for not only great wines, but great-value wines as well.

Under $17

Cabernet Sauvignon 2020, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Domaine Bousquet, Argentina red, $15.90, SAQ # 14195355. Organic. This cabernet goes down easy. It’s by no means light, but the cuddly tannins and accent on the fruit ratchet up the drinkability. It even works as a decent apéritif if you adore bold flavours. Classic blackberry and cassis notes, some peppery spice on the finish and decent length. Great choice for those who want torque and flavour without paying a lot. Grape variety: cabernet sauvignon. Residual sugar: 2.6 g/L. Serve at: 16 C. Drink now. Food pairing ideas: pepper steak, leg of lamb with mustard sauce.

$17-$22

Touraine 2020, Gamay, Le Bois Jacou, Jean-François Mérieau, France red, $20.45, SAQ # 12572858. Another one of those “serve cool” reds. Very juicy and quite complex gamay, showing the floral and rich fruitiness this grape can deliver. This is not a simple Beaujolais; it has length, and the depth of fruit is appreciable. With only moderate acidity, the texture is richer than you might expect. Delicious, only 12 per cent alcohol and very versatile. A red that can carry you from apéritif through a wide variety of food. Grape variety: gamay. Residual sugar: 1.7 g/L. Serve at: 14 C. Drink now. Food pairing ideas: apéritif, charcuterie plates, baked and stuffed trout with herbs and peppers.

$22-$27

Pays d’Oc 2021, Argali, Château Puech-Haut, France rosé, $22.55, SAQ # 11629891. One of the more elegant and restrained rosés I have drunk this summer. Gently draws you in with distant notes of red berries and florals. A delicate acidity keeps it nimble and fresh, with just enough richness surrounding the core. The finish is so comfortable, and the fruit comes back with even greater complexity, touching on melon and grapefruit. It gives you just enough to make you need to dive back in for more. Very pretty wine. Grape varieties: grenache, cinsault. Residual sugar: 1.7 g/L. Serve at: 8-12 C. Drink now. Food pairing ideas: apéritif, paella, Greek salad with cold shrimp.

$27 and up

Pouilly-Fumé 2020, Grand Vin, Antoine de la Farge, France white, $27.70, SAQ # 14928694. Grand vin? Believe it. This is spectacular sauvignon blanc. Please don’t drink this freezing cold — let it warm and give it a swirl. It’s so salty, like walking along the beach with a gentle, cool breeze coming in from the ocean. Then there’s the texture, so rich yet still so fresh. I was sad when I finished the last sip — that’s always the sign of a grand vin. Grape variety: sauvignon blanc. Residual sugar: 1.8 g/L. Serve at: 8-12 C. Drink now-2026. Food pairing ideas: apéritif, mussels, grilled fish with lemon.